The Porsche 944 was introduced in 1982 as an evolution of the 924 model. With its well-balanced handling, aggressive makeover and refined interior, the 944 quickly became a popular choice for Porsche enthusiasts. In this buyers’ guide, we will take a closer look at the history of the 944, its features and performance, and help you choose the right model for you.
The 944 was produced between 1982 and 1991 with various updates and improvements over the years. Here are some of the key changes in the model history:
1982: The 944 was announced in 1982 and the first model featured a 143bhp, 2.5-litre 8-valve engine.
1985: A major upgrade in February 1985 saw the introduction of the 'oval' dash, which improved the cabin ventilation and updated the interior appearance. In July
1985, the 220bhp 944 Turbo was introduced, followed by UK deliveries in November 1985.
1987: The 190bhp 16-valve 944S was introduced, with ABS as a new option.
1988: The engine was upgraded to 160bhp and a limited edition 250bhp Turbo S was introduced. The 944 'Celebration' was also released, marking the production of 100,000 944s.
1989: The engine was increased to 2.7-litres, with 165bhp. ABS became standard on all models and the Turbo was upgraded to 250bhp.
1990: The 944S2 was introduced with a 16-valve 3-litre engine producing 211bhp, available in coupe and cabriolet body styles.
1991: The 944 Turbo Cabriolet was introduced at the start of the model year. Production of the 944 Turbo and 944S2 stopped in July 1991, with the 968 model replacing all 944 models in 1992.
The 944 inherited its well-balanced handling from the 924 model, but with a more powerful engine and refined interior. With its 5-speed gearbox and versatile design, the 944 was a pleasure to drive and offered practicality with its opening tailgate and spacious cabin.
I've owned a number of classics and a number of 944's, the 944 S being the latest of the transaxle classics. I ran into many problems with this car that cost me a lot of money. Although there is no guarantee of buying a classic car, that in of itself is a risk as these cars are 30 years old.
The appearance of the 944 is what drew me in and considering this came out in 1982 - it has aged incredibly well. When pulling up in a petrol station be prepared to be stopped by curious people. The car has an 'every man' style about it that is appreciated by many.
But I think now with knowledge gained from experience, a rare car isn't what you really need. That is unless you have a fleet of cars and then you need the Porsche 944 Turbo S - the most expensive and top-of-the-range. These are around £30k+
What I'm talking about is actually living with a classic, and it could be your only car as these can be daily drivers.
Porsche parts are expensive whether you have a 993 RS or a 944 LUX. That is certainly something to consider before going for one of these.
Some parts are cheaper at the Porsche main dealer, for example, the rubber blocks the boot pins sit on, than say Ebay. Even other Parts shops were more expensive than going to Porsche direct.
When viewing one of these take someone with you who has some knowledge of general car mechanics.
Check the history file for engine work. Ask the owner questions about what he has spent on it. If they have not spent anything on general maintenance in the engine bay whether it needed it or not, then walk away.
944 Wheels and tyres:
944 Interior:
I would personally now steer clear of the 944 S. One of the reasons would be purely for the scarcity of parts for the 16v engine. This model was made between 1987-88. It has 190bhp which is more than the standard model of around 160bhp.
It took me a while to locate my S, the miles were 85k, and I wanted good service, I wanted decent paperwork with bills denoting it had some kind of records of money being put into it. It was in a garage and had no rust. This ticked a lot of boxes. The interior was in very good condition.
But the achilles heel is the 16v engine in the 2.5 litre guise and for me I found it very difficult locating parts. Although I did a lot of work on the car myself, when I had an idle problem (common issue) I felt a Porsche Specialist Garage would be best.
The idle issue was actually a number of issues - the AFM unit, the Throttle body, and an Oil Breather hose.
The AFM had already been 'reconditioned' but in fact I learned you can't fix the metal strip on these, so I had to purchase one from Germany - this unit is particular to the 944S. This was over £900!
The throttle body was £700 to replace with the O Ring and labour.
The Oil Breather Pipe could not be acquired and the garage asked for my help. This was an alarm bell in that these "S" parts are becoming very difficult to acquire. There was one unused pipe in Denmark. I couldn't find another one anywhere on the internet. I managed to get this one and along with these parts being changed the car then ran.
But I think this is a warning that this model in particular could be problematic for parts now and in the future. So I would select a different model.
When choosing a 944, aim to get the latest model you can afford, and make sure to check the condition of the car. On the early models, the 'oval' dash introduced in mid-1985 greatly improved the interior, so aim for a later model if possible. The 944 had a limited option list, so many cars will be selected based on their colour. Metallic colours tend to give the 944 more appeal, but make sure the paint quality is good. The 944S with its 16-valve engine was not as popular due to its disappointing performance, but the 211bhp 3-litre S2 was widely regarded as the best all-round 944. The base 944 was upgraded to 2.7-litres in 1989, giving it better overtaking capabilities. In the Turbo, the 944 gained a maturity that put its performance on par with the contemporary 911 Carrera. The 1989-90 models with the 250bhp engine are the best buys in the Turbo category. If you are looking for a convertible experience, the Cabrio is the only option.
So, whether you're a seasoned Porsche enthusiast or a new fan of the brand, the 944 is a must-have addition to your collection. The 944 model range offers a variety of options to suit different driving styles and preferences. From the base model with its smooth and well-balanced handling, to the sporty S2 and the powerful Turbo, the 944 has something to offer for everyone.
When it comes to choosing the right 944 for you, it's important to consider the model year, the engine size, and the performance upgrades that came with each iteration. Keep in mind that the latest model year you can afford, with a good service history and condition, is the best option. The mid-1985 "oval" dash upgrade and the 1989 engine increase to 2.7 liters, for example, greatly improved the car's interior and performance.
Check out our Porsche 944 Apparel
If you're looking for the ultimate 944 driving experience, then the Turbo models are the way to go. The 220bhp Turbos deliver a refined drive, while the later 250bhp Turbos offer even more exhilarating performance. The Turbo Cabriolet, with its top-down experience, is also a great option, but it's important to note that rear quarter visibility can be limited and the cabin can get quite dark.
In conclusion, the Porsche 944 is a true classic that offers a unique blend of versatility, performance, and style. With its smooth handling, powerful engines, and iconic design, the 944 is a timeless piece of automotive engineering that will never go out of style. The best way to find your 944 is to test drive a couple to find the right one. The LUX is a cheaper option, the S2 is an ideal option. So, get behind the wheel of this classic Porsche today and experience the thrill of driving a true sports car.
]]>The Porsche 944 is a sports car that was manufactured by Porsche from 1982 to 1991. It was built as a successor to the Porsche 924, which was introduced in 1976. The 944 was designed to be a more upscale and refined version of the 924, and it featured a more powerful engine and a more spacious and comfortable interior.
The Porsche 944 was initially equipped with a 2.5-liter inline-four engine that produced 147 horsepower. This engine was later upgraded to a 2.7-liter version that produced 161 horsepower. The 944 S was powered with a 2.5 16v engine producing 190bhp. In later models, the 944 was also available with a 3.0-liter engine that produced 208 horsepower.
In 1988, a turbocharged version of the 944 was introduced, which featured a 3.0-liter engine and a top speed of over 160 mph. All of these engines were water-cooled and featured a balance shaft to reduce vibration. The 944 was also available with a choice of manual or automatic transmissions.
There were several factory upgrade options available for the Porsche 944. Some of the most popular upgrades included:
In addition to these performance-oriented upgrades, Porsche also offered a variety of luxury options for the 944, such as leather seats, Air-Con, a premium sound system, and a power sunroof.
The 944 was well received by the motoring press and was praised for its handling and performance. It was also popular with buyers, and it remained in production for over a decade. In 1991, it was replaced by the Porsche 968, which was essentially an updated version of the 944.
https://retrooutlaws.com/collections/porsche-944
]]>I've owned a number of classics and a number of 944's, the 944 S being the latest of the transaxle classics. I ran into many problems with this car that cost me a lot of money. Although there is no guarantee of buying a classic car, that in of itself is a risk as these cars are 30 years old.
The appearance of the 944 is what drew me in and considering this came out in 1982 - it has aged incredibly well. When pulling up in a petrol station be prepared to be stopped. The car has an 'every man' style about it that is appreciated by many.
But I think now with knowledge gained from experience, a rare car isn't what you really need. That is unless you have a fleet of cars and then you need the Porsche 944 Turbo S - the most expensive and top of the range. These are around £30k+
What I'm talking about is actually living with a classic, and it could be your only car as these can be daily drivers.
Porsche parts are expensive whether you have a 993 RS or a 944 LUX. That is certainly something to consider before going for one of these.
Some parts are cheaper at the Porsche main dealer, for example the rubber blocks the boot pins sit on. Ebay and other Parts shops were actually more expensive than going to Porsche direct.
Here are my 2 cents worth on the 944.
When viewing one of these take someone with you who has some knowledge of general car mechanics.
Check the history file for engine work. Ask the owner questions about what he has spent on it.
944 Wheels and tyres:
944 Interior:
I would personally now steer clear of the 944 S. One of the reasons would be purely for the scarcity of parts for the 16v engine. This model was made between 1987-88. It has 190bhp which is more than the standard model of around 160bhp.
It took me a while to locate my S, the miles were 85k, and I wanted good service and it to have been kept in a garage with no to minimal rust. This ticked a lot of boxes. The interior and exterior were in good condition.
But the achilles heel is the 16v engine in the 2.5 litre guise and for me I found it very difficult locating parts. Although I did a lot of work on the car myself, when I had an idle problem (common issue) I felt a Porsche Specialist Garage would be best.
My engine has an idle issue and this was actually a number of issues - the AFM unit, the Throttle body, and an Oil Breather hose.
The AFM had already been 'reconditioned' but in fact you can't fix the metal strip, so I had to purchase one from Germany - this unit is particular to the 944S.
The throttle body was £700 to replace with the O Ring and labour.
The Oil Breather Pipe could not be acquired and the garage asked for my help. This was an alarm bell in that no garage had every contacted me to help them. There was one used in a the USA and one unused in Denmark. I couldn't find another one anywhere on the internet. I managed to get this one and along with these parts being changed the car then ran.
But I think this is a warning that this model in particular could be problematic for parts now and in the future. So I would select a different model.
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There are many useful threads online listing problems and fixes for the Porsche 944, but I found information was spread all over different websites. I wanted to create a solution to this by putting all the info - or as much as possible in one place. So over the next few months I'll be releasing a list of possible issues to help others. I hope fellow 944 owners benefit by reading this, please feel free to share your problems and fixes as well.
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My passion for classic Porsche's led me to create my vintage Porsche apparel shop Retro Outlaws. Feel free to check out my Porsche 944 designs including T-Shirts, Hoodies, Mugs, and Hats.
There are many useful threads online listing problems and fixes for the Porsche 944, 944 Turbo (951) and 944S2, but I found information was spread all over different websites. I wanted to create a solution to this by putting all the info - or as much as possible in one place. So over the next few months I'll be releasing a list of possible issues to help others. I hope fellow 944 owners benefit by reading this, please feel free to share your problems and fixes as well.
I should say I'm not a trained mechanic, so this information is for educational purposes only.
After the first downpour I noticed I had damp carpets in the drivers and rear foot wells. Plus dampness under the rear seats. After many hours, days, and weeks later I have finally cleared up (most!) of these issues.
What you'll need:
1) The first method for ascertaining your car's waterproofing is to let off an odorless smoke bomb. I used an odorless smoke bomb for fire alarms, but I would guess a smoke machine would work too so long as you seal the car off. I removed the rear carpet and placed the bomb in a container and let it off, shutting the rear hatch afterwards. The smoke will escape from places that aren't air/water tight. For example smoke escaped from my rear hatch straight away. This gives you a good guide on obvious places to look and fix.
2) Wet Rear Carpet - I had wet rear carpets as a result of water draining from the fusebox drainage channel and entering the seams of the passenger wing. Water was traveling through the car - this was causing the rear carpets to get wet.
To get to the drainage channel under the Fusebox, you need to remove the wheel and the plastic wheel arch. You will need a Philips and flat blade driver to remove the plastic screws. The wheel arch is pliable but be gentle as you don't want to break this. Next, use water-proof Polyurethane Sealant and run it all the way up and down the crevice where the panels join - below where the water drains.
3) Check around the Porsche Fusebox - water comes in off the windscreen and floods this area. I had a hairline crack on the sealant around the fusebox causing water to run inside the car to the passenger foot well. Re-seal this area. See point 4) as these two are linked.
4) If you are getting wet patches in the front passenger foot well then try removing the glove-box and the black plastic housing which sits underneath the fusebox. You'll need a helper with a hose running water into the fusebox area. I then used a torch and laid in the passenger foot well looking for any water to come through from above. It was easy to see where the drips were coming from. Also, I unscrewed the fusebox tray and pushed this up far as possible. From here I could also feel the water around this area. So this needs to be re-sealed.
5) The next leak was on the opposite side of the car to the fusebox. Check the welds in this area as I found two panels had a join problem. The welding had come apart. Again I used water-proof polyurethane sealant here.
6) Sunroof Drainage Channels - there are four drainage channels on each corner of the 944 sunroof - these can block up with debris and split apart joins inside the car causing water to leak. Use a guitar string or something similar like this to push down with warm water. You don't want to be too aggressive here, otherwise you'll separate the joins.
7) Sunroof seals - these rubber seals can fail through age and crack. So if they are old, then these are worth changing.
8) Poor alarm installation - I've seen poorly installed after-market alarms cause leaks. If it is attached to a bracket, check the screw holes. Make sure everything is water tight.
It is worth checking where the cables go from the alarm, have they been sealed correctly so no water can go through? With age and heat, or even the wrong sealant, this can cause problems. I would clean these areas and re-seal with water-proof polyurethane sealant.
9) Rear Hatch Pin Drains - the rear spoiler has a drainage channel on either side. These can become blocked, just poke something like a guitar string through or similar width and use a hose pipe to clear these.
10) I have heard of leaks behind the front wings, in which case they need removing to ascertain if you have a leak here. Depending on how competent you are, will determine if you want to have a go at this. I haven't done this so would advise caution. I would try to fix your leak problem before going down this route.
11) Rear Light Units - Water can leak around the rear lens clusters into the bulbs/the spare tyre area/and wheel wells. I must have had a gallon of water in the rear right wheel well! This is due to the rear light lens sealant failing. So remove these, clean the lens and body and replace with new sealant.
12) Rear Hatch Seal - I made the mistake of buying a generic 944 hatch seal and this not only caused a water leak, it also caused fumes to creep into the car. This was one length that you cut and join together.
I then ordered a proper seal which had no joins in it and this solved the problem. You will need to pop the boot pistons off with the help of a screwdriver. You will need to disconnect the rear wiper cable and unfortunately you can't do this at the window.
13) Rear Quarter Windows - These looked fine, but upon research I have heard that they can leak, presumably under the rear seats which is exactly where I have had water. Another place to check then! The fix is to carefully try and insert sealant between the rubber and glass. Peel the rubber pack with a flat edged tool and try to insert waterproof sealant. If this is too tricky then a window specialist may be advisable. Good luck!
If you guys have any more suggestions please do share them!
All the best guys till the next one,
Martin
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